“Look at this! I’m for life. And there is no other place in the world where that is so strong, not even in Africa. But if you ask me about the future of the Pantanal, I’m not optimistic.” André von Thuronyi, owner of an eco-lodge in Brazil’s great wetland, talks to Mick Brown, who reports for the Telegraph Magazine on a WWF project designed to protect the threatened headwaters of the Pantanal.